Where to Place a Salt Lick and How to Keep It in Good Condition

Published 2026-11-07 · 6 minute read · by Al Goher Trader

Start With Your Feeding Plan, Not the Lick

A salt lick is one part of how an animal is fed, not a substitute for a feeding plan. Whether, how and how much salt a horse, cow, sheep or goat should have access to depends on its overall diet, its workload, the climate and its health, and those are questions for your vet or an animal nutritionist. This guide does not cover what animals need; it covers the practical side once you and your adviser have decided a free-choice lick is part of the plan: where to put it, how to protect it, how to keep the area clean and when to replace it. Getting these basics right means the lick lasts longer, stays clean and is used the way you intended.

Matching the Format to the Setting

Different lick formats suit different places. Our range includes plain horse licks (AGFSL-104), drilled horse licks fitted with a hanging rope (AGFSL-105), flat tile licks (AGFSL-120), compressed 4 kg licks (AGFSL-107) that fit standard feeder holders, smaller 1 kg+ animal licks (AGFSL-101) for sheep, goats, deer, camels, rabbits and pets, and large cow boulders (AGFSL-109) of 18–23 kg for cattle. As a rule of thumb, rope licks suit stables and stalls where they can hang off the ground, compressed blocks suit wall-mounted holders, tile licks sit flat in a holder or trough, and boulders suit open yards and pasture where their weight keeps them in place.

Placement in Stables

In a stable, a rope lick is usually hung from a ring or hook on the wall at roughly the height the horse would naturally lower its head to, away from the water bucket and the hay net. Keeping it away from water matters for two reasons: drips soften the salt and make it wear faster, and salt residue in the water is something most owners prefer to avoid. Hang it where the horse can reach it comfortably without having to twist, and where it will not swing into the horse’s face or knock against the wall constantly. If you use a compressed block in a wall holder instead, mount the holder securely and at a sensible height, and check that there are no sharp edges on the holder itself.

Placement in Paddocks and Pasture

Outdoors, the main enemies of a salt lick are rain, standing water and mud. Place licks on higher, well-drained ground, ideally under a field shelter, a tree with good cover, or a simple roofed holder. Avoid gateways and the area around water troughs, where the ground gets churned up and animals crowd together. A lick placed a short distance from the trough and feeding area spreads animals out and reduces trampling. If you have several animals in a field, especially ones that do not get on, consider more than one lick in different places so a dominant animal cannot guard the only one.

Cattle Yards and Larger Herds

For cattle, cow boulders are the usual choice because their weight and size make them hard to push around and slow to wear. Set boulders on a firm, raised base — a concrete pad, a heavy tyre filled with gravel, or a purpose-made tray — rather than directly on soil, so they do not sink into mud. Place them where the whole herd can reach them over the day without one animal monopolising access. In large paddocks, several boulders spread across the grazing area work better than one in the corner. Check boulders regularly for cracks; a boulder that has split into pieces should be replaced, as smaller fragments wear unevenly and are easily lost in mud.

Sheep, Goats, Deer and Smaller Animals

Smaller animals need licks at a lower height and in formats they can use comfortably. The 1 kg+ animal licks and tile licks suit sheep and goats in holders or troughs kept off the ground. For goats, which climb, make sure holders are fixed firmly and cannot be used as a step. Deer licks are often placed on stumps or posts at the edge of cover; check your local rules before putting out licks for wild deer, as some areas restrict feeding wildlife. For rabbits and other pets, small licks are usually hung or clipped inside the enclosure where they stay clean and dry. In every case, follow your vet’s advice on whether a lick is appropriate for the species and individual animal.

Weather, Rain and Mud

Himalayan rock salt is dense and hard-wearing, but it is still salt, and water dissolves it. A lick left on wet ground or in the rain softens, develops a slimy surface and wears much faster than one kept dry. That is why rope licks hung off the ground last longer than plain blocks left in the field. In wet seasons, move outdoor licks under cover or into a roofed holder, and lift trays slightly so they drain. In very dry, dusty conditions, the opposite issue appears: the surface collects dust and dirt, so licks need wiping or brushing more often. After a frost, check that holders and ropes have not cracked or frayed.

Wind and animals moving licks around are another practical issue outdoors. Lighter licks left loose on the ground can be pushed into hedges, ditches or water troughs, where they are wasted or foul the water. A fixed holder, a heavy tray or a short chain or rope tied to a post keeps a lick where you put it. For cattle boulders, a recessed base such as a tyre filled with gravel stops the boulder rolling while still letting animals reach the whole top surface.

Keeping the Lick Area Clean

Animals lick, slobber and drop feed around a salt lick, so the surrounding area needs regular attention. Clear away droppings, spilt hay and mud from under and around the lick. Wipe or rinse holders and trays and let them dry fully before refitting the lick. If a lick has become heavily soiled — for example after falling into mud — it is often better to replace it than to try to clean it. Do not use detergents or disinfectants directly on the lick itself; clean the holder instead and follow any hygiene guidance your vet gives for your yard or stable.

Monitoring Wear and Replacing Licks

Check licks at least weekly. Look at how fast they are wearing, whether the surface is clean, and whether the shape has become hollowed or sharp. Hollowed licks can collect water and dirt, and thin edges can break off. Rope licks should be checked for a loose or frayed rope, and replaced before the rope fails and the lick drops into the bedding. Unusually fast wear, or a lick that is ignored completely, are both worth mentioning to your vet, since they may say something about the overall diet. Keep a note of when each lick was put out; it makes reordering easier and helps you spot changes in use over time.

Storing Spare Licks

Spare licks should be kept in their packaging in a dry place, off the floor and away from feed that could be contaminated by salt dust. A shelf in the feed room or a sealed bin works well. Avoid storing licks next to fertilisers, chemicals or fuel. Because rock salt draws moisture from the air, licks stored in a damp shed can soften or stick together, so a dry, ventilated store is worth the effort.

Notes for Feed Stores Selling Licks

If you sell licks, the best service you can offer is helping customers choose the right format for the setting: rope licks for stables, compressed blocks for holders, tile licks for troughs, boulders for cattle yards, small licks for sheep, goats and pets. Stock the holders and spare ropes alongside the licks, and keep pallets of licks in a dry part of the store. Describe licks by what they are — natural Himalayan rock salt in a stated weight and format, with no additives — and point customers to their vet or nutritionist for feeding questions, rather than printing mineral or health claims on shelf labels. For feed distributors, our licks are supplied by the pallet and can be combined with other formats in a mixed container.